Turkey Neck Gumbo Revelations
Growing up, I loved when my mom cooked turkey necks. It was such a simple but filling meal. It was also the easiest recipe: water, salt, onions, turkey necks, Lawry seasoning. Put everything in the pot together and boil until falling off the bone. As I’ve gotten older and lived in New Orleans for over a decade, people tell me they should be over rice. Blasphemy! If cooked right, you don’t need rice; just meat and a delicious broth.
I decided to combine my Alabama roots with my New Orleans roots and make turkey neck gumbo-a good way to have the yummy goodness of a rich broth, meat, and rice.
Honestly, I can’t say the idea is all mine. Homage, a cookbook by Chef Chris Scott, includes the recipe. Once I read it, it was as if a light bulb went off in my head, *ding*. It must be added to the repertoire, I thought. I looked over the ingredients and instructions. Chef Scott’s recipe didn’t start with the roux, but since I lived in New Orleans, the first thing I’ve always heard is,“First, you make a roux.” At the interactive restaurant (think fine dining with the ability to prepare your meal and get the recipes) I used to work, gumbo was always on the menu and we always started with the roux. I would go home many days, smelling of roux, a mix of oil and flour, a nutty smell when cooked down to the proper color. The color depends on the protein. Here’s the breakdown:
White- I think this for bechamel sauce. I never use it so don’t hold me to that.
Blond-usually for seafood like crab
Peanut Butter-this is the color I used for my gumbo. This is for your lighter tasting protein
Chocolate/Dark Chocolate-this has the most flavor and most gumbos use this color roux if chicken/sausage
Burnt-you’ve passed the point of no return. Throw it away and start again.
Gumbo, as most Southern food, is meant to feed a lot of people for the low low. When it comes to protein, turkey necks are one of the cheapest cuts of meat. 3lbs of turkey necks cost me $6. The necks tend to be thick and full of meat. In my 3lb pack, there were only six, but when cooked down, the amount of meat is the equivalent of a small rotisserie chicken. I can’t say everyone feels that way, as most people turn their noses at things like turkey necks. My momma cooked them because they were cheap and could feed a family of 6.
One of the reasons I reckon people don’t want them is because they don’t know how to cook them. They can seem intimidating. If you Google turkey necks, most recipes are boiled, stewed, or braised. No matter what way you cook them, it’s going to take two to three hours for them to breakdown, low and slow. I believe in low and slow cooking. My grandmother would get up early on Saturday or Sunday morning and prepare all of the food to make sure it was ready for the afternoon. We never had to wait for a meal to be cooked after church on Sunday but it took her hours to prepare it. We never knew most of the time because we were sleep or outside playing.
Now that I’m an adult (who told us adulting would be fun?!?) and food prices are on the rise, I’m going back to my roots in preparing meals for the low low. In Alabama, we never went to the grocery for produce, it came from my grandparents back yard. Fast forward 35 years, and we’re paying ridiculous prices for some produce because we don’t grow our own food as much. Maybe that’s the moral of all this, get back to your roots. Cook meals that aren’t pretty to photograph but can satisfy your tummy and soul.
We are in a moment in history where the old views of the world are fading. We haven’t quite figured out what views will take their place but with every dish prepared, story told, memory shared-we are getting closer. Food and water will be the determining factor in our future quality of life. Revisiting the food ways of our ancestors will be vital to the revolution. Who knew making turkey neck gumbo could lead to such revelations? 😆
*The turkey neck gumbo recipe will be posted next week. Subscribe to get it in your inbox.
Until next time,
Xoxo~Christilisa